How To Repair a Cut Power Tool Cord
So your power tool’s power cord just got cut. The first impulse you get is to kinda fix it by taping it up. See, that can spell doom at your next use of the power tool. Cut cords are not safe to use on your power tool. Tapes aside now, how can you repair a cut power tool? In this article, I will walk you through getting your power tool back in action.
How To Do The Repair
Repairing a cut power tool is one of the simplest repairs you can ever do in your workshop. Follow these easy steps and put your tool off the damaged box.
- open the tool
- locate the power switch
- take off the damaged cord
- connect new cords
- close your loose ends
Are these statements sounding difficult? Now let’s go into details so that you would be able to make use of your power tool safely.
As I mentioned earlier, these steps are pretty easy. Using a cut power tool can make your work erratic and unsafe. Cut wires that are taped up can melt and this can cause a connection bridge. You don’t want that to happen as it might blow up. Look now at how you would do it in more detailed steps.
Step 1 – Open the tool
First of all, you’ve got to take the end off the power tool. The end of the cord, that is the connection compartment. Depending on the design of your tool, your compartment might be a complete cover or a simple window. In my case, I have a tool that is covered by a simple window and a screw. So you have to screw out the covering to get inside the connectors.
Step 2 – Locate the power switch
Once you’re inside, you will see the connectors, usually white or black. You should separate the connectors. Beside the connector, you will find the power switch. It doesn’t join any two parts but it has wires inside and it has the switch. Now you see two way connection here, a ring terminal or eye terminal (people call it different names). The ring terminal goes into the switch and another comes straight into the plug outside.
Step 3 – Take off the damaged Cords
Now, take the plug and cut the wire that connects with the damaged cord. In most cases, the eye terminals are screwed into the plugs, and they might come as a fork style that just snaps up when connected. Cut the cord, and screw out the eye or ring terminal. There is usually a strain relief that holds the wires to the outside. This works so that no pressure would pull the wires out of the system. Once that is out of the way, you can totally remove the damaged cord.
Step 4 – Connect New Cords
Now you will have three plastic ends in your hands. The power correction capacitor , the switch and the connector to the motor. So you must cut the cord a little way back to leave a length of wire in the connectors. Your main aim is to replace all the wires.
The eye terminals are usually screwed on so you have to screw it out.
Get your new cord. Remove a small part of the insulator close to the edge and connect by twisting on the two ends of the white wires together. You must only do this after you have pushed the heat shrink into either end of the wires. Apply heat and molten metal to sold the ends together and slide the heat shrink across. And remember to apply heat over to shrink the rubber.
Also, you must have to measure how long the old wire was inside the connection box. If the new wire connection is too long, you would not be able to get it into the limited space in the compartment.
Next, look for an eye terminal, the same size of the screw on the crimps to replace the former.
If you don’t use the crimp that fits the crimp plugs, they won’t come down properly.
So remember to put your heat shrink in the wire first, then chop down the wire a bit if it is longer than the former wire. Using that heat shrink, you would end up with the same kind of effect as the former plastic.
Now there is something you must understand about using these crimps. You would notice that on a new crimp, there’s a seam there straight down the middle with a little tube section. That tube is where they’ve bent the flat plate. They stamp the crimps out of a piece of flat sheet metal and they bend the two tabs around to make the tube shape there. So on a new crimp, you will find a cup side and a pin side. You don’t want the pin side to be pressing on the pointed part because it can potentially spread those two tabs out and you’re gonna have a loose bad crimp. However, you must have the pin sticking onto the smooth back side.
So put the black wire in the crimp and press it down with the crimper to keep the wire locked in. Get that heat shrink up on the crimp and apply the heat.
Step 5 – Close All Loose Ends
Now that you have got the wires all on, screw the part in there and replace all into the machine.
Always make sure to stay safe. It is very easy to repair. However, if you need any professional help with your power tools, contact us for professional attention.